2012 Pony Express run with UXOC

This past February 18th I joined up with the Utah Xterra Owners Club for their annual Pony Express run. Since moving to Utah this past summer and acquiring a 2006 Nissan Xterra I have been keen to get out and explore many of the canyons around Cache Valley. This past summer and fall the Utah Road and Recreation Atlas (Benchmark Maps) has been top on my reading list for finding new places to explore. One place I have been really interested in is the west desert area of Tooele, Juab and Millard counties. The area is also called the Great Salt Lake Desert and includes the Dugway Proving Grounds (no public access), The Pony Express Trail and a portion of the Historic Lincoln Highway. Plus it’s a really big wide open place with small mountains that look like islands and has tons of potential for photography. If that wasn’t enough my long standing project about looking at the west has up to this point primarily consisted of images showing how we experience the west through visiting National Parks. Joining up with an automobile club would be both fun and new way to think about how we experience the western landscape and meet some fellow Xterra owners.

We planned to meet at 9 AM in at a gas station in Lehi. This was my first time here and I have to say I was impressed with the town’s old commercial district and the grain silo. It was a perfect sunny morning with lots of activity going on. When the group of Xterra’s I was in pulled up to the gas station there were about 20 Land Rovers leaving on some adventure. Then I saw a group of road cyclists (about 30 strong) heading up the road. This must be a popular place. After everyone in our group of 11 vehicles had fueled up and did whatever we needed to do at the gas station we headed out taking 73 west toward Cedar Fort for about 30 miles then hit gravel road at Five Mile Pass and kept going west. After a short distance we stopped as a group to take the opportunity to air down our tires. This was something I was initially wary of doing since I did not have a way to air them back up. Talking to a few drivers I learned that by deflating the tires it would provide better grip and also absorb some of the road vibrations. With over 100 miles to go I decided to air down slightly and see if I noticed any difference. It was hard to tell how much difference it was making for my ride as I only aired down about 7 pounds. I’ll have to experiment with this more on future runs.

Our next stop was Lookout Pass Station. We climbed a small hill had a look around, snapped some pictures of our vehicles with their first mud of the day then headed down to the walled off pet cemetery at the base of the hill. We attempted to drive up Little Valley Rd. on our way to Simpson Springs but due to bad road conditions we decided to head back to the main Pony Express Road. Being new to 4-wheeling it was one of the muddiest sections of road I have been on. I think it was a good decision to turn back and try it again when it has dried out.

Soon after we arrived at Simpson Springs Pony Express Station and stopped for lunch, conversation and picture taking. The highlight of the stop was watching a helicopter rounding up what I assumed to be wild horses. After some time the horses actually ran pretty close to where we were parked and everyone tried their hand at photographing the action. I got a couple of shots off before my camera battery mysteriously died. After some time we geared up and headed west toward Dugway Pass. Between Simpson Springs and Dugway Pass it’s about 20 miles of straight and flat road. Leave plenty of distance between vehicles (dust and visibility) and watch your speed. It’s easy to start going fast and you have to remind yourself that gravel roads handle very differently from highways. A hole in the road or dip could put you in a bad situation a long way from help.

After a restroom break at Fish Springs National Wildlife Refuge we stopped at Wilson Hot Spring. This was where my Xterra got muddy. The drive out to the spring was a sticky mix of mud, sand and salt. At one point I was sliding toward a very wet patch that had boards across it; some kind of sign not to go that way. Luckily I stopped before sliding into it and was able to back out and take the little bypass. The sticky mud reminded me of a passage in Earl Swift’s book The Big Roads,  “a truck convoy finding the Siberling Cutoff impassable, set off across the salt. This would have been a risky move in a light runabout. In a giant cargo hauler the results were inevitable. every truck that ventured onto the flats broke through and became hopelessly mired; even a Caterpillar tractor failed to achieve any traction in the stinking goop that lurked beneath the surface.” (page 68). The story ends with the trucks being carried out by hand. I’m glad to be living in a time of better roads and capable vehicles. The story is a good reminder of the dangers of traveling in the west desert of Utah.

A little farther down the road on the other side of the Fish Springs Range we took a side road at the Utah and Emma Mines. It was a nice climb up to the top. I waited on the main road until the end of our convoy as I wanted to get a shot of all the Xterras going up the road before I joined the party. The drive up the old mining road ended with everyone parking in a row with a spectacular view of the Deep Creek Range and Snake Valley. In low range and third gear I only had to tap the brakes on a few sharp bends in the road on our way back down. At this point we would be heading in generally North West and would go through the very small town of Callao.

About 5 miles out of Callao we turned onto a section of road that is marked both as the Pony Express Rd. and the Old Lincoln Highway. Except for one spot the road was dry but it was slow going as the road wound through many washes and small hills. This was the only part of the trip where we had traffic coming from the other direction. I can only imagine what it must have been like traveling in this area with a 1930’s or 40’s era vehicle (loose steering, breaks that lock up, no seat belts) and then coming around a curve to find another car headed your way. After 25 miles we were back on asphalt. Realizing we had missed the turnoff to take us to Gold Hill; members of our group talked via radio to see who wanted to go to Gold Hill and who wanted to just head to Wendover. Most of us decided to go to Gold Hill and arrived around 5 PM the place was literally a ghost town. I now understood why there were so many photos on the web of this old store front. It’s about the only thing there. I joined in and shot about 30 frames of the building from a few angles so I could stitch together a panoramic image of the place.

Next stop Wendover. A quick dinner and then the trek back to Logan. Since a winter storm was hitting the Wasatch Front I opted to take a northern route back to Cache Valley via the Old Midland Trail (Utah 30) and hopefully avoid traffic and snow. As it turns out it was the best option. In two and a half hours I made it to Tremonton and entered Cache Valley via Riverside. At Beaver Dam the snow had started and the road conditions deteriorated rapidly. Crossing the valley the snow just kept coming and traffic slowed to a crawl. My journey that had started at 7 AM that morning was completed 17 hours later at 11 PM. The only trouble I had was getting up my steep and snow-covered driveway. But I made it.

©2012 (images and text) Andrew McAllister

All images photographed with the Leica M8 and Zeiss ZM lenses.

169 thoughts on “2012 Pony Express run with UXOC

  1. Bruce- On this trip I kept thinking how nice it would be to stop and paint some of these magnificent places. You are an inspiration…

  2. Nice pictures to say the least.
    What would it take for a person to do one last actual ride along the Pony Express by horseback. No driving trucks or cars to to the task just horses and people to man the outposts one more time with fresh supplies.
    Now to do that in this day and age would be interesting and maybe even something the Post Office would actually take part in.

      • Perhaps this is something that could indeed be done. There are many people who know how to ride horses and there are horses that could love a rider.
        This could be good educational tool for schools. Just document it from like a riders point of view. Mount a camera on his helmet and do the editing afterwords.
        I am sure the US Postal service would love to hang their hat on this.

        Think of it “One Last Ride” and all in this era of computers and social media.

      • Hey, littlethunder, a pony express ride is apparently done every year. I googled recreate pony express ride to see if anyone else had thought of it and there it was! Who knew??? Here’s the link: http://www.xphomestation.com/

        This year it goes from California to Missouri. Last year it went the opposite way. Amazing. I’d love to see it; maybe next year. You can even send letters with the riders just like the old days. Too cool.

  3. I’ve explored Southeastern Utah extensively, but have missed out on the northern areas. Lovely photos! What a fun excuse to get out and see the sights. I look forward to more adventures from you and your camera!
    Kristine

  4. Beautiful photos! I lived several years in central Texas and while Utah is not Texas, it is like enough that it stirred a bit of bittersweet homesickness in me for the west. I’m definitely going to follow your blog – great work!

  5. The express riders had a lot of respect from folks–for good reason, their work was solitary, exhausting and dangerous in some of the most beautiful surroundings on Earth. Thanks for letting us see that there are still vast places!

  6. Great Photos and story. The West Desert of Utah and Great Basin, High desert region of the West in some incredible country and one of my favorites.

  7. I grew up in Utah – Utah County – and went four-wheeling out west of Lehi all the time but never did I get to see wild horses! Pretty! I scrolled all the way back through your blog. I hope you are eventually able to get to the many other, diverse, parks in Utah… personally I think they’re much more exciting than the rolling hills, the clear favorite being Zions. :) Have fun exploring! And you have some gorgeous photos!

  8. Your photos of the fascinating landscapes here are breathtaking magnificent. I wish I could go there soon again, I traveled in Utah and surrounding states in 1995.

    • Actually there were 3. They must have been around 2 gallon each. Not sure why this person carried extra fuel that way.

  9. Next time you are out near Wendover you really should stop at the Salt Flats. They are 10 miles east of Wendover and one of the most amazing places in the state. I am particularly biased, I supposed, but that doesn’t make me wrong. ;)

    Gorgeous photos of the West Desert!

    xox

  10. Your photographs amazingly represent the rough, rugged landscapes of the West. I would love to travel and trek through where these photographs were taken. Driving through the West must have been a great adventure with unlimited excitement and very invigorating.

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  12. The photos would have been much nicer without the cavalcade of cars in them, in other words with more emphasis on the setting instead of the seating. Just sayin’.

    • I appreciate your comment and understand what you are getting at. However the point of this blog entry is about meeting up with a car club and traveling together as a group through the western desert so I feel that including the Xterra’s is necessary. I have to say that it was interesting traveling in a large group as I am usually out exploring by myself. Thanks for looking.

  13. The “Pony Express run” caught my eye. My grandmother rode in the Diamond Jubilee 1935 Re-ride. She rode her horse several miles through southeast Nebraska to help in the celebration. Thanks for the story, great photos and bringing back memories of stories of my grandmother.

  14. We come from the land of the ice and snow,
    From the midnight sun where the hot springs flow.
    The hammer of the gods will drive our ships to new lands,
    To fight the horde, singing and crying: Valhalla, I am coming!
    On we sweep with threshing oar, Our only goal will be the western shore.

    Just a quote from “Immigrant song” :) Nice pictures !

  15. Spectacular scenery, wonderful photos and great narrative. Looks like you had an exciting trip. Have you ever thought of geocaching? I bet there are some great geocaches out there!

  16. I love adventures like yours. In my younger days adventure trips were the norm. Today, an adventure trip keeps me on a well signed interstate. Thanks for sharing and describing this great day.

  17. Hey, you’re in my neck of the woods! Part of the Pony Express Trail is now a road that is just a couple of blocks from where I live! And that grain silo in Lehi? That’s Lehi Roller Mills and it’s where the movie ‘Footloose’ was filmed. We’ve been in Utah a couple of years and have loved it. Probably wrapping up our time here soon and we’ll be sad to go. It’s a beautiful place. Never been out to where you were though! I think I’ll just enjoy the photos and save my car the trouble. :)

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  20. Awesome post! I’ve recently moved back to Utah after a decade away and I’m determined this time to explore all the natural beauty on offer. Massive stroke of luck you saw the horses… I’m planning to go out searching for some when the roads are dry enough for my crappy 2wd. If only I had an Xterra! :D

  21. Amazing landscapes, it just goes on forever. The emptiness is really powerful great photos and looks like you had a great time as well!

  22. I had a distant relative, great-great uncle maybe, who rode the Pony Express in Nevada. Looks like those spare gas cans on your vehicles is a must in that country.

  23. I have travelled much of the United States and have to say that I love Utah ! I get a bit of that “Utah feel” when I drive down to the Dead Sea. I am not much for taking pictures, but maybe next time I drive down there, I will stop for a shot. Off-roading with other enthusiasts is a special experience. Thanks for the good read!

  24. Great pictures Andy. You have an eye for details and beauty, a rare combination. Your commentary is spot on and makes me want to explore the west more. Dad

  25. These would make amazing prints for a large wall (not that I would copy, of course!)
    I love the horse photo and the jeeps lined up – they are my favourites.

    Well done. You a great talent.

  26. Great pictures, nice use of repetition with the vehicles. I’ve read about this road and it’s on my list so thanks for the great preview. We’re in a Land Rover, mostly northern Nevada. Looking forward to Utah next.

  27. Very nice. The desert is a wonderful place. I wonder if we could get some venture capital and restart the Pony Express. There’d be something unique and retro about having a guy run across the desert to deliver your Publisher’s Clearing House entry form.

  28. Pingback: Rugged Utah Beauty | Jake Spurlock

  29. Really nice pictures and writing. I’ve done some dirt-road driving in the West (US & Canada), but not in a 4×4, and not this time of year…was in a Datsun 240z…you can get going pretty fast on dirt! Congratulations on being Freshly Pressed.

  30. Definitely nice to read about and see photos of the great state of Utah! (SLC local, here) Next you should capture the grandeur of our mountains! Mount Timpanogos, Mount Olympus and the Unitas..I love that in one days worth of travel you can see Red Rock, play in the snow and roll in sand!

    Glad you made it home safely from your trip! No fun traveling in a storm, even when you have a 4X4!

    PS- I wonder where the Rovers went that day?

    • I like that you describe them as awesome and eerie. The western landscape is eerie many times and worth photographing. It’s not all pretty sunsets and large rocks in the foreground. thanks for commenting.

  31. In my eighth grade English class there was a poster of an old advertisement, recruiting pony express riders. They wanted young and fit and ideally orphan boys, expert riders, at ten cents a trip across the desert. A hundred and twenty years too late – and only slightly unqualified – I wondered where to sign up. Perhaps a Nissan would make the trip more pleasant.

    • Seeing the horses was great. I’m glad the group made such a long lunch break there otherwise we would have missed it. Lots to see out there.

  32. wow really very good trip even i would like go trip like this and photos are amazing……really if you post like this even i feel more that i went trip……………..thanks for sharing.really good post

  33. Great photos. I can tell that’s Utah, I’ve lived there, and there’s nothing quite like seeing clouds stretch across desert and mountains.

  34. Congrats on being Freshly Pressed! Your photography is just stunning.. I am originally from South Texas and its interesting how much those wide open spaces remind me of back home – even though its a totally different landscape. I hope to be able to take a photo roadtrip out that direction one of these days, and will definitely be keeping up with your blog sir!

    I’m also nominating you for the Versatile Blogger award on my blog (… a great way to share your favorite blogs with others and support each other’s blogs! http://versatilebloggeraward.wordpress.com/
    http://12monthscreativity.wordpress.com/2012/03/14/15-creative-clever-inspiring-blogs/

    Keep on shooting!
    Sarah

  35. Hi there!

    I just wanted to let you know that I nominated you for a Versatile Blogger Award. I found your blog last week and am really enjoying this photo project. Your photography is beautiful. =)

    I realize that not everyone likes to post about these sorts of awards, esp when they have a very specific blog on a specific topic like you do.. so please know I won’t be offended if you don’t want to repost. I just wanted you to know I shared your awesome work with a few folks and that I appreciate you putting it out there! =)

    Here’s the link to read more: http://12monthscreativity.wordpress.com/2012/03/14/15-creative-clever-inspiring-blogs/

    Keep on shootin!

  36. Great to learn more about this corner of US from Russia (we mostly see the-hollywood-movies-part of america from here) , Nice buildings) Looks great. Come to Russia to get more pics, We have some 17 mio square km to study)

  37. Thanks for the memories! We lived in Cedar Valley up until 1994 and explored all the places you mentioned. My husband was a real history buff on the Lincoln Highway and Pony Express. Remember many fun times wheeling around that country.
    And you captured it all beautifully!!!

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  39. What an interesting post! I never knew there were clubs for Xterra owners or I would have looked for one when I lived in Wyoming. Some of my favorite days there were spent driving around those dirt and gravel roads with my camera. It is such a great vehicle for out west. This looks like such a fun way to explore and have lots of folks nearby to get you out of any jam you might find yourself in. It is so rare to go exploring out west and not be isolated.

    • Traveling with a car club was a great way to see a desolate part of Utah. Safety in numbers is right. With the group I went places I would not have known about or attempted if I was alone. I’m looking forward to more drives with them. Thanks for your comment.

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